Beyond Tempranillo: The Hidden Grapes of Castilla y León

Castilla y León is one of Spain’s most significant regions and the cradle of the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabel. It boasts more than 60 of Spain’s heritage sites including over 500 castles, 12 cathedrals and eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It is also home to Vega Sicilia, one of the world’s most iconic wine brands.

As the largest autonomous region in Spain, Castilla y León covers nearly one-fifth of the mainland. It sits on the high Meseta where the climate can be extreme. An old Castilian saying captures this: “Nueve meses de invierno y tres de infierno” (“Nine months of winter and three of hell”). These conditions, along with varied landscapes, create a tremendous diversity of local grape varieties, many still unknown outside the area.

The Three Stars: Tempranillo, Verdejo and Mencía

While the region encompasses dozens of indigenous grapes, three dominate in influence and international recognition. Tempranillo, known locally as Tinto Fino, Tinta del País and Tinta de Toro, is the undisputed king of black varieties here. In DO Ribera del Duero it yields wines with considerable power and longevity, while in DO Toro its smaller, thicker-skinned berries produce darker, bolder styles. In DO Arlanza and DO Cigales it shows a softer side, contributing to both hearty reds and inviting rosés.

On the white side, Verdejo reigns in DO Rueda. Once used mainly for oxidized, sherry-style wines, it was revived in the 1970s when Marqués de Riscal and others championed fresh youthful versions, leading to the creation of DO Rueda in 1980, the first appellation in Castilla y León. Today its citrus, fennel and grassy notes have made Verdejo a Spanish counterpart to Sauvignon Blanc and one of Spain’s most successful white exports. Rueda alone produces about one-third of all the country’s white wine.

Mencía, meanwhile, thrives in the western reaches of Castilla y León, particularly in its birthplace DO Bierzo where the Atlantic influence tempers the harsh climate of the Meseta. Once dismissed as rustic, Mencía is known for its perfumed aromatics, medium body and fine tannins. In Bierzo’s slate soils it delivers wines with elegance and aging potential, placing it alongside Spain’s most respected grapes.

The Lesser-Known Black Grapes

Beyond the big three lies a collection of lesser-known varieties that add depth and diversity to Castilla y León’s vineyards.

• Prieto Picudo is native to DO León where it produces small, thin-skinned berries. The grape is early ripening and susceptible to spring frosts. It is grown almost exclusively in Castilla y León where it produces deeply colored wines with high acidity and aromas of red fruit and violets. In DO León it is central to rosés made by madreo, a technique where whole uncrushed bunches are added to fermenting must, creating wines with a faint natural spritz. Increasingly bottled on its own, it is gaining attention for its freshness and distinctive profile. It is also a main grape in VC Valles de Benavente.

• Rufete is the primary grape of VC Sierra de Salamanca in southern Castilla y León, but it has its origins in eastern Portugal. It is a late-ripening variety which yields light aromatic reds with floral and red berry notes. The grape is also grown in DO Arribes.
• Juan García comes from the Los Arribes del Duero national park in western Spain where the Duero River forms a natural border with Portugal. In DO Arribes, the grapes often shrivel, concentrating sugars, when ripe. The resulting wines are structured yet approachable with ripe fruit and herbal nuances.
• Estaladiña, authorized only in DO Bierzo, is a distinct, rare grape variety which has been rescued from near-extinction. Its wines are pale, light and aromatic with bright acidity and fine tannins.

The White Counterparts

 The whites of Castilla y León are equally diverse, with several indigenous grapes gaining momentum.

• Godello, often associated with Galicia, thrives in the drier cooler zones of DO Bierzo. The grape is early budding and early ripening and combines weight and minerality with vibrant acidity. Producers are increasingly aging it on lees or in oak, demonstrating its ability to rival top-tier whites from elsewhere in Spain and around the world. Godello is one of Castilla y León’s most versatile white grapes, showing both refreshing young wines and ageworthy examples reminiscent of white Burgundy.

• Albillo Mayor is a parent grape (along with Benedicto) of Tempranillo. It has become the traditional white grape of DO Ribera del Duero where it gained new recognition with the introduction of the region’s white wine category in 2019. Albillo Mayor is early budding and early ripening and gives textured aromatic wines. A handful of producers are now showcasing it in varietal wines, highlighting the grape’s diversity among the better-known reds of DO Ribera del Duero. 

• Albarín Blanco, not to be confused with Albariño, is native to DO León and the neighboring region of Asturias. It produces wines with lively acidity, citrus notes and hints of tropical fruit. Though plantings are still limited, it is viewed as one of the region’s most promising grapes. 

• Doña Blanca, grown primarily in DO Bierzo, is the local name for the very old grape Síria, mentioned as far back as 1513. It offers a subtle profile of apple and pear with herbal undertones. Often blended rather than bottled on its own, it provides freshness and structure in blends, but varietal wines are becoming more common. The grape is also known as Malvasía Castellana in DO Toro where it plays a minor role in white blends, typically adding body and floral notes. In recent years producers have begun to explore it as a varietal, appreciating its ability to produce balanced wines in the heat of the Meseta.

A Living Heritage

The wealth of indigenous grapes in Castilla y León reflects centuries of viticultural adaptation to diverse landscapes and climates. From the high plains of Valladolid to the slate slopes of Bierzo and the granite terraces of Arribes, each variety represents a distinct response to its environment. While Tempranillo, Verdejo and Mencía remain the region’s ambassadors, the continued recovery and recognition of grapes such as Prieto Picudo, Rufete, Juan García, Estaladiña, Godello, Albillo Mayor, Albarín Blanco and Doña Blanca underscore Castilla y León’s position as one of Spain’s most dynamic wine regions. As Spain continues to spotlight the diversity of its indigenous grapes, those from Castilla y León will continue to showcase the region’s heritage.

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