food and wine

Recently, Barbara Philip MW hosted a virtual food and wine tour webinar for the Wine Scholar Guild. The cuisine of central Italy is as fascinating as it is delicious. This is where tomatoes and olive oil begin to replace the butter and cream of the north. Heavy, stuffed pastas give way to long pastas and are joined by more vegetables. The food of central Italy reflects the agricultural treasures provided by the warmer climate. Local grape varieties also enjoy their time in the sun, ripening to juicy perfection, creating wines that really reflect their surroundings.

There is a man in Logroño’s Calle Laurel who makes garlic mushrooms. It’s the one and only thing on the menu, not that there is a menu. Griddled mushrooms, served on toast, drowning in garlic butter with a small slice of prawn on top. They are miraculous. I think about him and this bar often, as I lurch between life crises, as I think he may possibly have discovered the ultimate secret to a life of happiness and contentment. For me, this dish in this place is

On a blistering June day, my suitcase rattling over the hot cobblestones, I made my way by through the village of Amboise in the Loire Valley, where my tour with the Wine Scholar Guild was about to begin. That night, in an 18th century hotel decorated in a style my spouse describes as “manic grandma,” the group toasted our safe arrival and talked about what had brought each of us there. Though we were a diverse set—with wine professionals from all over the map, and a handful of enthusiasts outside the industry—we all seemed to agree on one thing

“The couple at number 12 wants to see you,” my assistant told me, returning from what I immediately knew was going to reveal itself as a tricky table to please. At the time, I was managing the wine list of a charming modern-British restaurant with rooms in the New Forest, a fairytale-like national park about two hours’ drive southwest of London. The gentleman at number 12 couldn’t believe how a young waiter, wearing a bright pink shirt and a denim tie, could possibly offer him proper guidance on a wine list boasting over 400 entries.  

In the world of wine, the sommelier holds a position of both reverence and responsibility. More than just a connoisseur, a sommelier is an interpreter of terroir, a storyteller of vintages and above all a master of human connection. Philippe, a world-renowned sommelier from France's Jura region, spoke with WSG’s Founder and President Julien Camus recently, with rare authenticity about what defines excellence in this noble craft.