The Many Paths of Jura: A Travel Guide

There are as many ways to explore a place as there are explorers. Far be it from us to turn this article into a definitive list of must-do activities, but rather to share one of the (oh so many!) possible paths to discovering the diverse, rich and varied region of Jura.

Whether you are a lover of long, leisurely moments that leave room for the unexpected, a more structured itinerary, or perhaps something in between, Jura offers endless possibilities.

The most interesting vignerons and artisans work in lockstep with the cycles of the living world, therefore your visiting experience will depend very much on when you go. While you plan your trip, don't hesitate to ask the vigneron(s) or people you're planning to visit. They are a wealth of information!

Day 1: Arbois and Surroundings

A Taste of Spring at La Chèvrerie d’Arbois

Let’s start this adventure in Arbois, on the road to Pupillin, where Carmen works her magic at La Chèvrerie d’Arbois. In early May, as spring begins, the first fresh goat cheeses – aged for just one or two days – make their appearance. They are so precious and delicious!

The cheese is made using traditional methods. Like a winemaker who relies on the natural yeasts of the vineyard and cellar, Carmen uses "homemade" lactic ferments, free from additives and preservatives, helping the notion of terroir become immediately so clear. Carmen's work is certified “Nature et Progrès”, a label which, in our opinion, is one of the cooperative and collective solutions of the future – championing transparency and respect in both production and consumption.

The cheeses are sold on market days (Friday mornings) at the Place du Champ de Mars in Arbois. If you can, bring your own container!

Picnic by the Cascade des Tufs

At lunchtime, head to the Cascade des Tufs in Planches-près-Arbois with Carmen's cheese, a beautiful salad with Élise's zucchini from the Pommeraie farm and a bottle of Guille Bouton single-vineyard Chardonnay from Étienne Thiebaud (Domaine des Cavarodes) – that's my idea of happiness.

Exploring History in Salins-les-Bains

After the picnic, take a 20-minute drive northeast of Arbois for a truly surprising visit that is well worth the detour. We are now in Salins-les-Bains to explore the Grande Saline. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, you can discover this singular place, featuring an 11th-century gallery that comes to life on a guided tour. Beyond its intrinsic interest, a visit to the Grande Saline is a wonderful way to get ready to (re)discover wine through the lens of terroir.

Dinner in Pupillin

With all these incredible vistas in mind and a remaining taste of salt still on the palate, it’s time to think about dinner. Make your way to Pupillin at La Table du Grapiot, run by Noémie, Vivien and her team. The brand new terrace is almost finished and long, beautiful summer evenings are on the horizon. To make any night a special occasion, La Table du Grapiot is a beautiful, welcoming place with a cozy fireplace for winter evenings and tables outside in the summer.

You'll enjoy immaculate cuisine - mastered classics with a modern and inventive touch - all served by an outstanding team. We love this place, its people and will remember the delicious creamy spelt lobster dish for a long time.

Day 2: Southbound Adventures

Morning in Thoiria

For our second day, let’s head south! The village of Thoiria, where Amandine and Paco run the Fruitière 1900 is approximately a one hour drive away from Arbois. This is the last place where Comté cheese is still made the old-fashioned way - over a wood fire and using traditional manual techniques. If you want to learn more about these techniques, we encourage you to watch Louise Courvoisier’s beautiful film Vingt Dieux. The Fruitière 1900 allows guests to attend the cheese making process by appointment only and for a small fee.

Waterfalls, Bread and Wine

With a delicious piece of Comté cheese in your basket, you could head north to enjoy the magnificent waterfall at Baume-les-Messieurs. On the picnic menu: a few slices of Ariane Stern's delicious bread (Ariane and Romain have taken over Lucien's vineyards and started Maison Les Grands Pas in Saint-Lothain), young Comté cheese from the Fruitière 1900, paired with Bruno Bienaimé's Bulle d'Amélie 2018. Next, you can try a more mature Comté (aged 46 months, for example) from Essencia in Poligny (or Arbois) and a glass of Château-Chalon 2016 or 2017 from Domaine Courbet.

A View and a Meal in Château-Chalon

For dessert, head to Château-Chalon, where the view of the hilltop village and vineyards is splendid. If you wish to enjoy a local meal, we always recommend visiting Lucie and Olivier at Le Bouchon du Château.

Coffee Meets Comté in Poligny

For a mid-afternoon break after a walk in the vineyard and a tasting, you could go to Poligny and head to Simon and Jean's Café Clandestin coffee roasting workshop and store. It's all happening in the Poligny train station.

A very successful pairing that might not be expected: coffee and Comté! You can play with the types of roast (Café Clandestin’s is on the very light side), the method of extraction of the coffee, along with the age of Comté.

Evening in Grozon

Not far, let's head for dinner to one of our favorite places in Jura: the Auberge de Bellevie in Grozon. This place is the product of Zoé Boinet, supported by her amazing team. Friendliness, great vibes and comfort reign supreme. The ingredients are carefully sourced and selected then masterfully prepared by a kitchen team led by Byron Fini that makes you want to hug them with every bite. One of our many fond memories of the Auberge is a delicious flatbread accompanied by a La Franche seaweed-flavored beer.

If you're planning a long evening or a few days in the region, you can also book a room here. Rooms are simple, yet elegant and very comfortable. The bonus on sunny days? The swimming pool!

Day 3: Arbois Revisited

A Slow Morning in the Village

On this Saturday morning, don't miss La Sucrerie in Arbois for one (or two...) of their delicious croissants AND pains au chocolat, accompanied by a coffee or drink from Nos Jardins imparfaits (Amandine and Tristan's project in Saint-Jean-d'Étreux).

After a slow morning and a tasting at the Tissot shop in Arbois, booka table for lunch at Le Comptoir Kokagué, where Chiaki and Raoul work wonders.

Here, fruits and vegetables come from the garden as much as possible, with a touch of inspiration from Chiaki’s Japanese roots. They are carefully selected from artisans who are equally passionate and committed. Chiaki elevates these high-quality ingredients with generosity, and a rare finesse of both heart and spirit. In the dining room, Raoul makes you feel truly welcome—like you’re at home. As you explore the excellent wine list, he’s always ready to offer thoughtful advice on vintages and pairings. Among the many wonderful memories, the discovery of the Méli-Mélo 2018 vintage from Amélie Vuillet and Sébastien Jacques, paired with slightly spicy tempura shiitake mushrooms was a real treat!

Afternoon Walk and Wine in Pupillin

After an afternoon stroll through the vineyards in Pupillin and a tasting at Kévin Bouillet’s, you could walk back down to Arbois in the shade of the trees and enjoy an aperitif at Le Bistrot des Claquets—an institution in Arbois, in the Jura, in France… and, dare we say, in the world! We’re hardly exaggerating. Rachel and Marie are the warm hosts who make this place a gathering point for neighbors, visitors, winemakers, longtime residents of Arbois, friends, and soon-to-be friends. The food and wine are excellent. The kitchen is open only for lunch, offering a single menu with a buffet of starters and a selection of lively wines to open and enjoy on site. While dinner isn’t served, the bar remains open in the evening. One of our recent favorite moments at the bar was with a glass of Trousseau, La Vigne du Louis 2019 from Michel Gahier.

Final Dinner in Arbois

For the evening and our final dinner, Circus is a must-visit. Seasonal products are sourced as much as possible from committed local artisans—Élise’s asparagus and Carmen’s cheeses, among others. The service is always attentive, precise, and warm. In short: a very joyful place! Two of our most recent highlights at Circus were wines from Morgane Turlier (Paul et Serge 2022) and Nicolas Jacob with his Pinot Noir Au Mouiller 2022.

A Gentle Goodbye

For those who have to hit the road again, you can take a break by the Cuisance River after dinner—imagining future adventures and dreaming of the many discoveries still waiting on your next trip to the region.

The Jura is a welcoming, generous place, where the spirit of community and sharing is embodied by sensitive, committed, and passionate people—whom this modest article humbly seeks to honor.

Baptiste Morisot, in Manières d’être vivant (Ways of Being Alive), describes the ongoing ecological crisis as a crisis of the senses and of sensibilities. Meeting and talking with Carmen, Christophe, Anne, Pierre, Manu, Philippe, Yoshi, Chiaki, Lucie, Raoul, Noémie, Vivien, Katie, Rachel, Zoé, Byron, Salomé, Nino, Simon, and many others offers a powerful antidote—rooted in the sensuous, the living, and the celebration of being alive, together.

The Jura is a land defined by these daily, profound, and ever-renewed commitments to reawakening our ways of being alive—to their beauty, and to their poetry.