Hidden in Plain Sight: Exploring the Ruby Sparklers and Mountain Wines of Bugey 

Despite being almost exactly between Jura, Savoie, Burgundy and Beaujolais, Bugey remains one of France's most overlooked appellations. Yet this small region, situated in the southern foothills of the Jura mountains offers a compelling range of underrated wines. As we expand our vinous horizons beyond familiar territories, Bugey presents a perfect case study in how wine continually rewards the curious and open-minded explorer. 

In the Ain département in eastern France, halfway between Lyon and Geneva, Bugey's vineyards are scattered across three main zones: Cerdon in the north, Belley in the center and Montagnieu in the south. The landscape features steep limestone slopes—southern extensions of the Jura range and pre-Alps—rising to elevations between 400-500 meters, creating near-ideal conditions for cool-climate viticulture (for the moment anyway). This topography combined with the moderating influence of the nearby Rhône River produces wines of freshness and precision. 

Bugey's terroir shares characteristics with its neighbors—the alpine influence of Savoie, the limestone soils of Jura and even hints of Burgundian elegance—yet maintains its own distinct identity. The region received AOC status relatively recently (elevated from VDQS in 2009) though its viticultural history stretches back to Roman times. Under medieval monastic influence, Bugey was once an important wine producer, reaching its peak in 1870 before falling into relative obscurity following the devastating scourge of phylloxera.

Cerdon: Bugey’s Bubbly Backbone 

Accounting for nearly 60% of Bugey's total production, the sparkling rosés of Cerdon are the region's signature. These delicate semi-sweet bubbles are produced using the méthode ancestrale—a technique that predates Champagne's more famous méthode traditionnelle. The alcohol averages around 8% depending on the residual sugar which ranges from 20-80 grams.

Unlike méthode traditionnelle where a finished still wine undergoes a second fermentation in bottle, méthode ancestrale involves bottling partially fermented wine. In Bugey producers refrigerate the wine to temporarily halt fermentation before bottling. Fermentation continues inside the bottle naturally creating gentle effervescence without the need for added sugar or yeast. The result is a wine of remarkable freshness and purity with the natural sweetness of the grapes preserved rather than added later through dosage.

Cerdon's distinctive pink bubbles are crafted primarily from Gamay often with small additions of the local Poulsard grape (sometimes called Ploussard). The thin-skinned almost translucent Poulsard contributes delicate aromatics while maintaining the wine's characteristic pale ruby hue. Though it might seem as if these wines have been produced for centuries, Cerdon's sparkling rosé tradition actually emerged in the post-World War II era when local producers recognized the commercial potential of this unique style. Some local producers proudly claim that Bugey-Cerdon represents the oldest deliberate tradition of sparkling rosé in France though similar wines were likely made elsewhere throughout wine history. Nevertheless they’ve been doing it long before the current fashion.

Bugey-Cerdon is one of just a handful of French appellations with an officially recognized méthode ancestrale production alongside Blanquette de Limoux, Clairette de Die and certain sparkling wines from Gaillac. This stands in minor contrast to the more recent explosion of 'pétillant naturel' (pét-nat) across France and globally where many producers use essentially the same méthode ancestrale technique but often under the trendier 'pét-nat' designation without specific appellation regulations governing the style.

For those tempted to dismiss sparkling rosé as frivolous—as I once did—Cerdon offers a compelling counterargument. These wines are bursting with bright red fruit (wild strawberry, raspberry and cherry) with refreshing acidity and subtle floral notes all wrapped in gentle palate-cleansing bubbles. Their moderate sweetness and low alcohol make them remarkably versatile with food from spicy Asian cuisines to charcuterie platters, fruit-based desserts or simply as a refreshing aperitif. At a fraction of the price of Champagne they offer guilt-free pleasure for everyday enjoyment and effervescent celebrations alike. And because there is essentially ‘nothing added or taken away’ these are ‘natural wines’ without making the claim.

Honestly I was a skeptic but the more I tasted and reflected during a recent visit, Cerdon turns out to be effortlessly on trend.

Bubbles and Beyond  

While Cerdon dominates the conversation about Bugey the region's still wines and other sparkling styles deserve attention. In recent years forward-thinking producers have been tapping into the serious potential of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on Bugey's limestone slopes producing wines that can occasionally rival their more famous and pricey neighbors to the west.

In southern Bugey particularly around Montagnieu méthode traditionnelle wines are crafted from Chardonnay-dominant blends sometimes incorporating local varieties like Jacquère and Altesse. Tiny quantities of Aligoté, Pinot Gris, Mondeuse Blanche and Molette are also grown throughout the region adding to Bugey's diverse viticultural palette. These wines offer more complexity and structure than Cerdon with fine bubbles and pronounced mineral character reflecting the region's limestone soils.

As in neighboring Savoie the indigenous Altesse grape (known locally as Roussette) produces some of Bugey's most interesting still whites labeled as Roussette du Bugey. These wines combine rich texture with nervy acidity and distinctive notes of mountain honey, white flowers and alpine herbs. Though historically more widespread plantings of Mondeuse Noire (a relative of Syrah) have declined but still yield characterful reds with peppery violet dark fruit profiles, low alcohol and solid aging potential.

The Eternal Return of Bugey 

Like many of France's under the radar appellations Bugey is experiencing a quiet renaissance led by a new generation of quality-focused producers. Increasingly these vignerons are embracing organic and biodynamic practices—a natural fit for a region whose relatively isolated position has helped preserve its environmental integrity. Bugey reminds us once again that the world of wine is neither singular nor static but always in a process of ‘worlding’ constantly evolving as vignerons experiment, tastes change, climates shift, old traditions are revived and new ones take shape. For the curious wine lover willing to venture beyond the familiar Bugey offers remarkable value and distinctive character.

The sparkling rosés of Cerdon offer a joyful introduction to the region while its still wines and traditional method sparklers reward deeper exploration. Bugey stands as a delightful reminder that some of wine's most interesting stories remain hidden in plain sight waiting for those willing to ask, what lies between?

Further reading: Wink Lorch's Wines of the French Alps (2019) offers excellent coverage of Bugey alongside neighboring Savoie.