In conversation with Olivier Humbrecht MW of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

Olivier Humbrecht MW is one of the most influential winemakers of Alsace. Matt Walls speaks to him about his journey so far, taking in changing styles, biodynamics and the future of the region.

Sitting around the lunch table with friends recently, the conversation turned to the concept of value. Which wineries, did we think, offered the best value for money? My response was immediate: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht.

Its reliable, entry-level range begins at just $32/£24 per bottle, and its grand cru collection, considered by many to be among the finest white wines in the world, range from around $54/£40 to $121/£90 per bottle.

Comparable wines from leading estates in Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Champagne or the Rhône cost many times that. Alsace wines are currently undervalued, so as a wine lover there has never been a better time to get to know them–and Domaine Zind-Hubrecht in particular.

Deep roots

Located in Turckheim, just a few kilometers west of regional capital Colmar, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht was formed in 1959 when Léonard Humbrecht married Geneviève Zind. Both were from winemaking families; the Humbrechts have traced their winemaking family tree back to 1620.

Its 40 ha/99 ac of vines are divided into over 100 different parcels, spread across six villages and multiple soil types, including several grand cru sites. All the grapes for which the region is known are represented: Riesling (43%), Pinot Gris (26%), Gewurztraminer (18%), Pinot Blanc (4%), Auxerrois (4%), Muscat d'Alsace (2%), Pinot Noir (1%)–and even a little Chardonnay (3%). The estate has been certified organic and biodynamic since 2002.

Starting out

Olivier joined his father at the estate in April 1989 at the age of 26, after completing his studies and working at wineries in California and Oregon. He had already worked several summers at the winery, so on his return “I already knew very well what needed to change,” he says.

But to implement these changes he needed more space. His father built the original winery on the edge of Turckheim in 1959, and as time went on the village subsumed their small facility.

Building a new winery opened up fresh possibilities. They created a gravity-fed system rather than relying on harsh pumps. Digging down and creating a barrel room underground created a naturally cool, damp environment that’s less drying than air conditioning, so kinder to their old wooden barrels.

Previous space restrictions meant they had to bottle all their wines before receiving the new harvest. A larger cellar meant they could keep their wines on the lees much longer, for 16 to 18 months, producing wines with more depth and intensity.  

So often we hear the truism that wine is made in the vineyard. But getting practical matters straight in the winery means the vines can express themselves with more fluency.

Changing styles

The early 1990s saw the estate concentrate on terroir expression and developing its grand cru bottlings, permitted in part by having a bigger winery.

“Back then, the sweet wines were easiest to sell,” says Humbrecht, and he made lots of vendange tardive (sweet late harvest) and sélection de grains nobles bottlings (sweet wines with noble rot). But “things changed dramatically about 20 years ago,” he says, and he pivoted towards dry wines.

This was partly due to climate change, as hotter weather means lower acidity (crucial to balance high sugar levels) and drier conditions are less favourable for noble rot. But it was also in response to a change in global drinking habits. “You have to adapt to what nature throws at you in the vineyards… and you also have to adapt to what people want to drink,” he says.

Embracing biodynamics

Humbrecht’s decision to pursue biodynamic farming wasn’t originally inspired by books or other winemakers. It was, in his words, “a question of shit”.

During his search for a local source of fertilizer, Humbrecht bought some manure from local farms. But he found that the dung refused to break down; even after the first year, “it still smelt like a septic tank,” he says. Having analysed samples in a lab, he found eight different antibiotics in the manure which were causing the problem.

The next year he went to an organic farm, “and the compost was really good”. When Humbrecht returned the next year, it turned out the farmer worked biodynamically. This piqued his interest, so Humbrecht prepared some experiments. He discovered that the compost that he prepared using biodynamic processes contained many more microorganisms, and many more worms.

“It made me understand viticulture and vinification differently,” he says. Cultivating vines en masse “brings a lot of stress to a vine,” he says. It’s far from a natural state for the plant, which is originally a solitary climber. For vines, he believes “biodynamics is like a therapy… to help the vines forget about stress.”

The only disadvantage to biodynamic viticulture, he says, is the additional cost, both in new equipment and skilled workers. And “if you have a disease in the vineyard, it can be hard to stop its progression… if you make a mistake it can cost you dearly.” Biodynamic farming is a preventative approach rather than curative one. 

Looking ahead

But there are certain things that biodynamics can’t prevent, such as the increasingly hot, dry weather in Alsace. When it comes to viticulture, however, he is anti-irrigation, believing it’s a questionable use of a scarce resource. 

In the light of decreasing wine consumption, he suspects much of the vineyards in less favourable terroirs will simply cease to be cultivated. “It might be a good thing if Alsace loses 30% of its surface, to focus only on the best vineyards,” he says.

He’s remarkably sanguine about it. “I’m always optimistic and see my glass half-full… I’m very hopeful for our top vineyards in Alsace, mostly the hillsides,” he says. “It’s just part of today’s evolution; we have to produce less wine, and better wine.”

This is what came across strongly in our discussion; a practical and adaptable approach, but one that never compromises on quality or terroir expression.  

These are wines of intensity, of intention, that always have something to say and lessons to impart. And the wines are still relatively affordable; for now, at least.

The Domaine Zind-Hubrecht range

Turckheim range 

Entry-level range of dry wines from classic Alsace grape varieties: Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. All domaine-grown fruit from the gravel soils of the Fecht valley.

Roche range

Four single-soil, varietal wines that illustrate the typical expressions of different soil types. Sometimes sourced from young vines from their single vineyard or grand cru sites. Roche Calcaire comes from limestone marl soils, Roche Granitique from granite, Roche Roulée from alluvial rounded pebbles and Roche Volcanique from volcanic soils.

Single vineyard range

Single-vineyards of great quality that aren’t classified as grand cru. Includes Heimbourg (Turckheim limestone), Clos Jebsal (Turckheim limestone marl rich in fragments of gypsum), Rotenberg (Wintzenheim limestone marl soils stained red with iron oxide), Clos Häuserer (Wintzenheim limestone marl) and Clos Windsbuhl (Hunawihr limestone marl).

Grand cru range

A quarter of the Zind-Humbrecht estate is classified grand cru, including some exceptional sites: Goldert (Gueberschwihr limestone marl), Hengst (Wintzenheim limestone), Wineck-Schlossberg (Katzenthal biotite granite), Sommerberg (Niedermorschwihr pink granite), Brand (Turckheim pink granite) and Rangen (Thann sedimentary volcanic rock).

Late harvest range 

Occasional bottlings of vendange tardive and sélection de grains nobles when conditions allow, often from grand cru sites.